Rhône 2007 - Part 3: Gauntlet Laid Down - Fondrèche

I have to admit that I have been a massive fan of the wines from Domaine Fondrèche and I often find myself reeling at how splendid their wines are vis-à-vis value.The only thing I dislike about Fondrèche isthe bloody awful music that plays when you enter their website (switch your computerto mute is my advice.) Bob describes the mas a “reference point” for what can be done in the Côtes du Ventoux, indeed I concur and have often felt that they represent a reference point for value wine!
They own 35-hectares of vineyard, 28-hectares encompassing their Domaine at Mazan that benefits from an enviable microclimate and terroir: poor, argilocalcaire soils with good exposure to the wind and sunlight. We met with Sébastien Vincenti (pictured outside his winery) to taste their stellar array of 2007s that formed one of my highlights of the week. These were all beautifully executed wines with exceptional fruit intensity, thrilling balance, good acidity levels, ostensibly sleek, focused, refreshing wines that can either be drunk young or will cellar for 4-6 years, possibly longer. Sébastien himself seemed very content with his most recent portfolio and they deserve a place in your cellar.
All the wines had been bottled in mid-September and Sébastien aims for a completely natural vinification with no use of sulphur. It is difficult to select just one or two wines from his range of 2007s, although the Syrah-based Côtes de Ventoux Cuvée Persia 2007 is absolutely spellbinding, benefiting from a slightly higher toasting in barrel that marries beautifully with the precocious fruit.
Now that Fondrèche have laid the gauntlet down in Côtes du Ventoux, who will follow?
Tasting Notes

2007 Domaine Fondrèche Côtes de Ventoux Nature 91
Debut Cuvée in 2007, a blend of 50% Mouvedre, 30% Syrah and 20% Grenache, all fermented in wide concrete vats, this has a deep garnet hue, very limpid. The palate has immense clarity with blackberry, cassis, black plum and some white fennel/Provencal herbs coming through with further aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced, a somehow “mellow” character with blackberry, cassis and tinned prune. Very harmonious and entrancing. Superb. Drink 2009-2015.
Tasted November 2008.

2007 Domaine Fondrèche Côtes de Ventoux Rouge Fayard 92
Another wonderful Fondrèche 2007, a blend of 50 % Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10 % Carignan, 10% Mourvèdre. It has great lift on the nose with blackberry, blueberry and an almost Margaux-like floral touch. The palate is very natural with stunning balance and silky tannins, very pure with blueberry, cassis and iodine, leading to a sensuous finish. This is a beautifully crafted wine. Drink 2011-2016.
Tasted November 2008.

2007 Domaine Fondrèche Côtes de Ventoux Cuvée Nadal 91
A blend of 45 % Syrah. 45 % Grenache. 10% Mourvèdre (the first and last matured in demi-muids) this is more reticent on the nose than the Fayard but still has great precision and clarity, with a slight tertiary accent coming through with aeration. The palate has a silky texture on the entry, good acidity, very polished like a Premier Cru Vosne-Romanée with black cherries, black plum and cassis, complemented by a hint of pain grille. Suave and sophisticated. Drink 2011-2016.
Tasted November 2008.

2007 Domaine Fondrèche Côtes de Ventoux Cuvée Persia 93
A blend of 90% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre, this is an absolutely stunning Persia, even though the nose was showing a little reduction at the time. But the palate is beautifully defined with silky smooth tannins, touches of raspberry, liquorices, blackberry and minerals, the finish exuding finesse with an almost Côte-Rôtie like finish. It is a wine that just envelops the mouth, satiating every pore. Awesome. Drink 2011-2018.
Tasted November 2008.